In Stars Hollow, Rory and The Quirks are sitting in the porch swing, hair foils on their heads, looking through Rory's scrapbooks. She shows them a picture of Dean, whom they pronounce cute, and a photo of Rory working on the Chilton paper. Ah, the good ol' days. Let us take a moment to remember them fondly, especially since the next few minutes are taken up by Lucy, who goes into what can only be described as a quirkspin, talking about how Boyfriend is going to flip out about her new hair color and how Boyfriend himself has great hair, like one of the Rice Krispies guys. It is so irritating that I want to shave my teeth when they're done. Even Alexis Bledel is visibly pained. They then go inside, where the girls notice Rory's growth chart inside the closet. "Can you believe you were this short in 1991?" Lucy asks pointing to a low mark on the door. Aw, shit. I graduated high school in 1991. OLD. ["Class of '92, right here, and I feel you. Yesterday I had to run out of a Hollister because the music was too loud." -- Wing Chun] "Check it out," Olivia says sweetly. "The next year you shot up like weed." Rory laughs: "That's when I finally stopped smoking." Rory is slightly wistful looking at her little timeline, but distracts herself with the prospect of Rice Krispies treats.
Back in Paris, Christopher and Lorelai arrive, all dressed up, at yet another closed restaurant. It's L'arpege. Lorelai points out that if the place was closed in the middle of the night, it's still going to be closed at 5 in the morning, but Chris knocks and, surprise surprise, the door is opened by a dashing maÃ®tre d', who leads Chris and Lorelai to their table, which is surrounded by a veritable coterie of restaurant staff. "What is this?" Lorelai whispers excitedly, asking how in the world Christopher pulled it off. Lorelai looks so beautiful and the Eiffel Tower is visible through the restaurant window and yes, fine, this is very romantic, sure. Fine. What, is my heart made of stone? For thirty whole seconds, my gargoyle heart softens. Until...Christopher starts talking about how he had been thinking about how their teenaged dreams of going to Paris got derailed -- "I'll say," Lorelai gushes -- and that it's amazing that, after everything they've been through, here they are like no time has passed at all and nothing has changed. Hmm. No time at all, like Rory's whole life? But then, Chris adds, he remembered that the one thing that has changed is that now he's totally loaded. "You totally bribed them to open," Lorelai says, shocked. But...how? Did he call the owner at home somehow or...I know, I know. It shouldn't matter. But it does! It's allegedly 5 AM and they're about to sit down to a full-course French meal? Augh! Whatever: Lorelai is suitably impressed. "Anything for you," says Chris. "Anything." She says that this is all wonderful and that she's happy. As a matter of fact, she would have been happy with a croissant on a park bench, which he reminds her was part of their teenaged Paris dreams. "I'd still sleep on a park bench with you," says Chris intensely. With fresh wet eyes, Lorelai looks back and tells him to name the bench. "I love you," she whispers to him across the table, and I believe her. "I love you, too," he says and after making plans to return to their beautiful hotel bed after their meal, they lean across the table for a romantic kiss in front of the shining Tower.