The teams now have to make their way to the Red Fort, where they can pick up the next clue. Phil points out that this market will be "a real contrast to Italy." Phil is so helpful. Emily actually isn't sure what country she's in, as she says, "Andale, andale" in the cab. As Momily speeds along, Nancy notices cows on the median. (Doesn't that sound like a country band? "And here's the new hit tune, 'She Stole My Hat And Left My Head Defenseless,' by Cows On The Median.") In the Esquire cab, Brennan is -- d'oh! -- wearing the visor. Who do I sue for doing such a bad thing to such a nice-looking boy? Karyn urges her cab to pass Esquire, which it apparently does (though this sequence is, again, very hard to follow). Lenny, incidentally, has a bandanna over his face, which either means he's planning on robbing a bank in the old West, or perhaps that he's not doing well with the air in India. Back in the Esquire cab, the boys dubiously check up on the driver and the destination. They look nervous.
Teams speeding along the road toward the Red Fort, and as Rob puts it, Esquire's "luck holds true" and their cab is stopped for some kind of a roadside payment. Rob is in a foul mood. Foul, foul, foul. (And I feel so bad for him that I wouldn't dream of pointing out that his moment of greatest frustration offers a killer view of not only The Arm That Stomped Tokyo, but also The Jaw That Ominously Threatened Miami.) It actually appears that Lenny and Karyn are stopped, too. Karyn yells that she's being ripped off, even as she forks over the money. "We're gonna lose!" she yells at the driver. Which is likely to be a good strategy, you know, because he really cares.
In Cab Shower-Fresh, Kevin correctly reflects on the fact that this was a good week to take the Fast Forward. "The Fast Forward people already have, like, a huge lead on us right now, so the twelve-hour rest is counting as we speak. Little bit of luck -- I'd rather be lucky than good." Frank and Margarita relax at the pit stop, proving Kevin's point.
As we reach the market, this is as good a time as any to say what must be said about much of the rest of this episode. What you are about to see of India is that it is extremely poor and extremely crowded. I've never been there, but I've certainly heard that it has plenty of fascinating and rich culture, some of which I think we might see next week. But here? You're about to see some serious teeming humanity, and that's for real, too. There's nothing to do but see it. CBS isn't really sure how much to make you look directly at it, the contestants can't explain to you what it's like or how they feel about it, and there's no way a show like this can adequately educate you about it. Much of the rest of this episode is, at least for me, clouded by sadness about the fact that partying in Paris or flying a glider in Italy is one thing, but navigating through what is essentially a barrier made up of other people with whom you can't communicate is entirely another. And it doesn't matter whether you like begging, and it doesn't matter whether you like tourists, and it doesn't matter whether you think it's right or wrong to hand out money. It's sad. Sit and let it be sad, because that's all you can do.